As night time approaches, the synchronised sounds of the tabla and the jingling ghunghroo reach a crescendo and the high-storey houses, with intricately carved balconies and awning windows, begin dazzling with bright lights. Their windows and doors remain ajar till the wee hours of the morning, offering potential customers a sneak peek of the revelry of music and dance going on inside.
Such was a typical night at the notorious Heera Mandi located in the heart of Old Lahore before the 1980s. Most continue to imagine the place as a wild alternative world of entertainment and debauchery. However, this perception of the Diamond Market starkly contrasts with its present reality. The landscape of Heera Mandi, where most businesses typically commenced past midnight, has drastically altered over the decades.
Waning kothas and missing dancing girls
Abdul Sattar*, who is in his mid-twenties, hails from a gharana which historically organised mujras. “We gave it up following threats by some unknown people to end this ‘business’,” says the young man, who is dressed in casual jeans and a blue t-shirt.